Baixa and Chiado: the first-visit base, flat, central, on the metro

Alfama is atmospheric, but many doors are up steps no taxi reaches

Príncipe Real: calm and leafy for a longer stay, uphill walk home

Bairro Alto is the bar district, loudest on Friday and Saturday

Santos is flat, quiet, near the river, 15 minutes' walk from Chiado

Saldanha: the red metro line runs straight to the airport

Tourist tax is €4 a night, up to 7 nights; all 9 areas in the guide