
Stay in Baixa or Chiado on a first visit to Lisbon. It is the flat part in the middle, both hills are a short climb from it, and the metro runs underneath. Príncipe Real is quieter and better value for longer stays; Alfama is the most beautiful and the most awkward to arrive at.
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Baixa or Chiado. They are flat, central, connected by metro, and put both the castle hill and Bairro Alto within a ten-minute walk.
It is the most atmospheric part of Lisbon and the hardest to arrive at. Worth it if you travel light and are staying several nights; not if you have a large suitcase or a late flight.