Mallorca needs a car and about five days. The island is far larger than the map suggests — the mountain road along the northwest coast is slow by design, and the coves worth the trip are not on a bus route. Come in May, June, September or October: July and August bring the crowds and the prices, and from November to March a good share of the north and east simply closes.
This is the single planning decision that changes everything else about Mallorca, and most guides mention it in passing if at all.
One consequence worth planning around: the mountain road is not a route you want to drive tired or in the dark. Treat the Tramuntana as a daylight activity and come back down before dusk.
The mountain range running along the northwest coast is a UNESCO World Heritage landscape, and the villages strung along it are the part of Mallorca that looks nothing like the postcards of the resort strip.
Sa Calobra is worth doing once and is not worth doing in a hurry. If you have half a day rather than a full one, Deià and Valldemossa give you the same landscape without the two hours of driving.
Sóller sits in a bowl of orange groves behind the mountains, connected to Palma by a narrow-gauge railway from 1912 and to its port by an equally old tram.
Take the train up, and decide about the tram when you see the queue. Nobody who walked down to the port has regretted it.
| Coast | What it is | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Northwest (Tramuntana) | Cliffs, pine, mountain villages | Driving, walking, the scenery |
| North (Alcúdia, Pollença) | Long sand bays, shallow water | Families, a base away from Palma |
| East (the calas) | Small coves between headlands | Swimming, but you need a car |
| South (Palma bay) | The resort strip and the city | Nightlife, and the airport |
Picking one coast and staying there beats moving hotels twice. The island is wide enough that a base in the north and a base in the south are genuinely different holidays.
Most itineraries treat Palma as the place the plane lands. It is a real city with a real old quarter, and it holds up against Seville or Valencia.
Five days covers Palma, the Tramuntana and one stretch of coast without rushing. A week lets you add the north — Pollença, Alcúdia and Formentor — which otherwise gets squeezed into a single long drive.
Yes, unless you plan to stay in Palma. The buses cover the main towns but not the coves or the mountain villages, and those are what most visitors come for. Without a car the island shrinks to a city break.
The Serra de Tramuntana — specifically Deià and Valldemossa — the train from Palma to Sóller, and Palma cathedral. Those three between them are the island at its most itself.
They answer different questions. Mallorca is much larger, has real mountains and a proper city, and works for a week without a plan. Ibiza is smaller, flatter, and organised around its coast and its nightlife.
The Serra de Tramuntana mountain range on the northwest coast, the coves along the east, and Palma cathedral on the seafront. The resort strip near the airport is the most visible part and the least representative.